Food You Want to Eat

“The key to success in the kitchen is just to enjoy it,” promises chef Straker, creator of the All Things Butter brand, in his striking debut. The accessible, wide-ranging recipes will appeal to a variety of tastes, with crash courses on such beloved classics as filet mignon with peppercorn sauce, roasted tomato and basil soup, and jam-filled doughnuts. Several are quick and beginner-friendly: for the side dish of spinach with lemon and parmesan, fresh spinach is sauteed with garlic, salt, and olive oil, and then finished with lemon juice, pepper, and cheese. Other recipes are still easy but will take time to prepare, such as the slow-roasted lamb shoulder, which needs to cook for at least three and a half hours. For those seeking a challenge, there’s more ambitious fare, such as the butternut squash agnolotti, which involves piping a roasted squash puree into homemade pasta dough. Regardless of the difficulty level, Straker’s instructions are clear, and he takes time to provide explanations for each step: when making focaccia, for example, let flour and water sit to autolyze, ensuring that the flour is fully hydrated and begins to develop gluten, “improving the smoothness, elasticity and flavor of the dough.” The result is an excellent, well-rounded collection of recipes that home cooks of all levels will turn to time and again. (Aug.)