I loved this. Of the 1,000 recipes in Françoise Bernard’s La Cuisine: Everyday French Home Cooking (Rizzoli), I picked the Cauliflower Soufflé because it seemed quintessentially French, because I’d just bought a huge head of cauliflower at the farmer’s market, and because I’d never made anything like it before. Also, the recipe seemed easy enough and there weren’t very many ingredients. The soufflé was light and airy but also creamy and cheesy and buttery at the same time. It was so easy to eat, and yet I had to stop myself because I knew all that was in it! This would be great served with some saucy meat, as an alternative to the more run-of-the-mill mashed potatoes or polenta. I had just one minor issue: the bottom of the soufflé was a little liquidy, but I suspect that was my fault in possibly overbeating the egg whites or not folding them in properly. Another thing, I seasoned the cauliflower puree with salt and pepper as well as the béchamel because I figured it might come out bland otherwise. The result was perfectly seasoned, definitely something I’d make again.

Cauliflower Soufflé

Serves 4

Salt

2-pound head of cauliflower, cut into florets

3 large eggs, separated

½ cup shredded Gruyère cheese

Thick Béchamel Sauce:

4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) butter

¼ cup all-purpose flour

2 cups milk

Salt and pepper

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the cauliflower and cook until very tender, 15 to 20 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, make the thick béchamel sauce: In a large saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Whisk in the flour until it starts foaming. Whisk in the milk. Season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, whisking, then reduce the heat to very low and cook for 10 minutes.

3. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Brush a soufflé dish with butter.

4. Drain the cauliflower well. Puree the cauliflower using a food mill or a food processor. Remove the béchamel sauce from the heat. Beat in the cauliflower puree, the egg yolks, and cheese.

5. Beat the egg whites with a pinch of salt until stiff. Mix one-quarter of the egg whites into the cauliflower mixture, then fold this lightened mixture into the remaining whites.

6. Scrape the cauliflower mixture into the soufflé dish, filling it three-quarters full. Transfer to the oven and bake until risen and browned, about 40 minutes. Serve immediately.

From Françoise:

I like to grate the equivalent of 2 pinches of nutmeg—no more—into the béchamel sauce for a delicate flavor.