The Book of Tapas by Simone & Inés Ortega
I chose two iconic tapas to make: albondigas (meatballs) and patatas bravas. The main problem with the meatballs was that they weren’t seasoned enough. Some grated onion, prosciutto, paprika, or black pepper would have kicked them up a notch. The sauce was puzzling; “2 ripe tomatoes” were called for with no mention of type, size, or weight, while the amount of onion required (3 ½ oz) seemed strangely specific. These two ingredients plus salt, pepper, and saffron constituted the sauce, which was then unnecessarily watered down with 1/3 cup water. The saffron was detectable, but the sauce on the whole needed more punch. The patatas bravas were very good. The dressing added to the warm boiled potatoes was tangy from the Worcestershire and vinegar and smoky from the paprika. However, these were very unlike the patatas bravas I’ve had before; the potatoes are usually fried and the sauce is either tomato- or mayonnaise-based. And again, the amount of potatoes (“12 small”) was vague, begging the question, “What exactly is ‘small’?” There’s no reason why a lesser amount of large potatoes couldn’t be substituted, if only the weight was given in ounces. Overall, these two dishes seem to be representative of the book, working better as suggestions for ways to combine traditional Spanish ingredients to make tapas at home than as recipes written in stone.
Patatas Bravas
Serves 4
Ingredients:
12 small potatoes, unpeeled
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon white-wine vinegar
1 pinch hot paprika
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
1 teaspoon chili powder or Worcestershire sauce
salt
Bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Add the potatoes and cook for 20-25 minutes, until tender but not falling apart. Drain and let cool, then peel and slice or dice. Transfer to a plate or tray. Mix together the oil, vinegar, paprika, garlic, and the chili powder or Worcestershire sauce in a bowl. Pour the mixture over the potatoes and serve hot.
Albondigas
Serves 10
Ingredients
4 ¼ cups (500g/1 lb 2 oz) ground (minced) beef
1 sprig parsley, chopped
1 clove garlic, very finely chopped
1 egg, lightly beaten
4 tablespoons bread crumbs
3 tablespoons white wine
1/3 cup (40 g/1 ½ oz) all-purpose (plain) flour
generous 2 cups (500 ml/ 18 fl oz) sunflower oil
salt
For the sauce:
4 tablespoons olive oil
3 ½ oz (100 g) onions, chopped
2 ripe tomatoes, chopped
1 small pinch saffron threads
salt and pepper
Put the beef, parsley, garlic, egg, bread crumbs, wine and a pinch of salt into a bowl and mix well. Shape the mixture into small balls, rolling them between the palms of your hands. Lightly coat the meatballs in the flour.
Heat the oil in a skillet or frying pan. Add the meatballs, in batches, and cook over medium heat, turning frequently, until golden brown all over. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the meatballs to a pan, arranging them in a single layer.
To make the sauce, heat the oil in another skillet. Add the onion and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes. Add the tomato and cook, stirring occasionally and breaking it up with the side of the spoon, for 6-8 minutes. Stir in generous 2 cups (500 ml/ 18 fl oz) water and season with salt and pepper. Bring the sauce to a boil, let cool slightly, then pass it through a food mill or process in a food processor. Pour the sauce over the meatballs. Crush the saffron threads in a mortar, then stir in generous 1/3 cup (100 ml/3 ½ fl oz) water and pour the mixture into the pan. Simmer the meatballs in the sauce for 15-20 minutes, then serve.
Note: You can also make the meatballs with ground veal or a mixture of ground beef and pork. Simmer veal meatballs for 10 minutes only.
